Ready to bind off (using TECHKnitter's Tubular Cast Off)!
Wednesday, October 1, 2008
Saturday, September 27, 2008
Hypothetical top-down knit hat pattern
After the first hat I made for Baby N turned out way too small, and then repeatedly starting (and frogging) a second hat because it was either too small or too big, I decided that top-down was the way to go, because you can fit it as you knit it. It was difficult to choose a pattern, though, because naturally I must consider all patterns available either online or in library books to determine the very best one--which I was ultimately unable to do. So I made one up using bits and pieces from several different sources.
This is for a simple cap in stockinette stitch with half an inch of 1x1 ribbing.
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Cast on 6 sts using the figure 8 (aka wrap) method. *K1, M1* all the way around (12 sts). (For this purpose, M1 = knit in the back of the loop then the front of the same loop.)
Rnd 2: K.
Rnd 3: Increase 6 sts evenly spaced.
Repeat rnds 2 and 3 until the circumference looks almost big enough.
Now do the following calculation:
1. using what you've knit to this point, determine your gauge, G sts/inch;
2. measure the wearer's head circumference, H inches; and
3. the number of sts needed for the circumference, C = 90% x H x G.
Continue repeating rnds 2 and 3 until you have C sts.
Now, measure from eyebrows to the base of the head, L. The length of the hat (from cast-on to cast-off edge) should, in theory, equal 1/2 x L.
Knit straight (no increases) in stockinette st, until the piece measures (1/2 x L) - 1/2 inch.
Switch to knitting needles that are 1 size smaller, and knit 1/2 inch of 1x1 ribbing (K1, P1).
Cast off tubularly.
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So, that is the hypothetical pattern. Now I just have to test whether it works.
This is for a simple cap in stockinette stitch with half an inch of 1x1 ribbing.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Cast on 6 sts using the figure 8 (aka wrap) method. *K1, M1* all the way around (12 sts). (For this purpose, M1 = knit in the back of the loop then the front of the same loop.)
Rnd 2: K.
Rnd 3: Increase 6 sts evenly spaced.
Repeat rnds 2 and 3 until the circumference looks almost big enough.
Now do the following calculation:
1. using what you've knit to this point, determine your gauge, G sts/inch;
2. measure the wearer's head circumference, H inches; and
3. the number of sts needed for the circumference, C = 90% x H x G.
Continue repeating rnds 2 and 3 until you have C sts.
Now, measure from eyebrows to the base of the head, L. The length of the hat (from cast-on to cast-off edge) should, in theory, equal 1/2 x L.
Knit straight (no increases) in stockinette st, until the piece measures (1/2 x L) - 1/2 inch.
Switch to knitting needles that are 1 size smaller, and knit 1/2 inch of 1x1 ribbing (K1, P1).
Cast off tubularly.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
So, that is the hypothetical pattern. Now I just have to test whether it works.
Friday, September 12, 2008
Baby sling M5678
Five years ago when Little M was an infant, and we were living in downtown SF and carless (not a typo: we didn't have a car), we carried him everywhere in this NoJo ring sling:
(As you can see, he was very comfortable in it.)
But it was quite bulky, and not ideal for wearing when the weather's warm. You can make a sling quite easily. There are free instructions on the web. I used McCall's 5678 (only I made it single-layered instead of double). Here it is in size Small (for reference: I'm 5'7" tall):
Baby and mom are both comfortable, but it's a slight bit of a challenge getting him into the pocket.
(As you can see, he was very comfortable in it.)But it was quite bulky, and not ideal for wearing when the weather's warm. You can make a sling quite easily. There are free instructions on the web. I used McCall's 5678 (only I made it single-layered instead of double). Here it is in size Small (for reference: I'm 5'7" tall):
Size Medium works perfectly (and even my 6' tall 200-lb husband can use it).
I made single-layered slings (M5678 calls for 2 layers of fabric). There is just one, curved seam. For strength you should double-stitch it. The edges are narrow-hemmed. Also, to make it even easier to put on (you have to fold it in half lengthwise and match the edges, before putting it on), you can stitch the two sides together at the shoulder so that it's always pre-folded and ready to don.
Fabric used: Thrifted duvet cover.
(Addendum: If you get stuck at step 14 of the instructions, check out the tips in the Comments below.)
I made single-layered slings (M5678 calls for 2 layers of fabric). There is just one, curved seam. For strength you should double-stitch it. The edges are narrow-hemmed. Also, to make it even easier to put on (you have to fold it in half lengthwise and match the edges, before putting it on), you can stitch the two sides together at the shoulder so that it's always pre-folded and ready to don.
Fabric used: Thrifted duvet cover.
(Addendum: If you get stuck at step 14 of the instructions, check out the tips in the Comments below.)
Thursday, September 4, 2008
S3874 nursing top
[photo missing]
This nursing top is based on another idea from Rostitchery. The top part (the overlay) is from Simplicity 3874 (now OOP), which, conveniently, has an underbust seam. I put on the dress I made from this pattern to confirm that I could cut the back piece on the fold and get rid of the zipper. The underlay is a simple rectangle.
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After taking the above photo I tacked the underlay to the overlay's armhole seam allowances, to keep the underlay from getting pulled down whenever I sat down.
Fabric used: a thrifted super soft, all-cotton sheet.
It's cute, but I should have adjusted for the larger & lower mammaries.
By the way, I overcame my lazy tendencies and fixed the nursing T by taking in the underbust elastic--it looks much better!
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In non-sewing news: I got Baby N to smile at me today!
Tuesday, August 26, 2008
Easy access, baby!
Totally stealing this idea, I modified a free T-shirt pattern ("Lydia", from Burdastyle.com), to make a nursing top:
with easy access (my duct tape double is flashing you!):
The original front pattern piece looks like this:
but instead you need to cut an overlay and an underlay.
The front underlay piece looks like this:
and is elasticized at the top (stitch 1/4" elastic to the edge).
The overlay piece looks like this:
and is elasticized at the bottom (if your fabric doesn't curl, just turn up 5/8" and stitch a scant 3/8" casing).
Other modifications: after cutting the 5/8" seam allowance off the neck edge, I bound it with a crosswise strip of fabric, which wasn't difficult and turned out well.
My only gripe is that size 38 is loose-fitting on me so this looks more like a dorky nursing top than a non-dorky non-nursing top. Next time I'll try cutting size 36, tightening up the elastic, and shortening the overlay piece. (I need to get in the habit of trying things on as I sew; I could have remedied the loose-fit problem easily.)
I used a double-knit (1-3/8 yards), which was fast and easy - no edges to finish.
This is definitely wearable and therefore a (qualified) success!
with easy access (my duct tape double is flashing you!):
The original front pattern piece looks like this:
but instead you need to cut an overlay and an underlay.
The front underlay piece looks like this:
and is elasticized at the top (stitch 1/4" elastic to the edge).
The overlay piece looks like this:
and is elasticized at the bottom (if your fabric doesn't curl, just turn up 5/8" and stitch a scant 3/8" casing).
Other modifications: after cutting the 5/8" seam allowance off the neck edge, I bound it with a crosswise strip of fabric, which wasn't difficult and turned out well.
My only gripe is that size 38 is loose-fitting on me so this looks more like a dorky nursing top than a non-dorky non-nursing top. Next time I'll try cutting size 36, tightening up the elastic, and shortening the overlay piece. (I need to get in the habit of trying things on as I sew; I could have remedied the loose-fit problem easily.)
I used a double-knit (1-3/8 yards), which was fast and easy - no edges to finish.
This is definitely wearable and therefore a (qualified) success!
Tuesday, August 12, 2008
Crocheted itty bag finished!
Used 1 skein of Lion Cotton exactly. Less than 6 inches of yarn left at the end. I single-crocheted the pieces together but could have sewed them instead (if I'd run out of yarn).
Dimensions: 8.5" tall x 6" (26 single crochet) wide x 1" deep. One inside pocket. Just big enough to hold an oversized wallet, cel phone, and car keys, but not much else. Inspired by Pammy's Bag in Knit or Crochet (pdf) at WoolyWonder.com.
Monday, August 4, 2008
Would you pay $17 to have "Vogue" instead of "Butterick" on the pattern envelope?
Has anyone else noticed that Vogue 8351 (price $20) and Butterick 5202 (price $2.99), for empire waist knit dresses with gathered fronts, are identical? So, you can choose to pay an extra $17 for the "Vogue" name on the pattern envelope. Or not. This is not like finding a designer knock-off at Target; this is like finding the exact same item with a Target label. I'm not complaining! But I am curious about the thinking behind this marketing tactic.
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